Tracing the Threads: A Journey Through the History of Leavers Lace

Leavers lace is the result of over five centuries of evolution. From its early artisanal roots during the European Renaissance to the waves of industrial innovation that followed, the art of lace-making gradually transformed into a sophisticated mechanical craft.

The precise origins of lace remain somewhat mysterious, with no documented evidence of its existence prior to the 15th century. The origins of the lace industry can be traced back to Europe, where techniques grew out of embroidery and netting traditions. 
Both Italy and Belgium have long claimed to be the birthplace of lace: Italy is credited with inventing needlepoint lace, while Flanders is known for developing bobbin lace. Determining which emerged first is nearly impossible. Italy’s punto in aria (“stitches in the air”), the earliest known form of needlepoint lace, evolved from cutwork embroidery that involved making deliberate holes in fabric to form patterns, later adorned with lace. Bobbin lace, by contrast, likely developed in Belgium and took inspiration from netting techniques.

The History of French Lace: Colbert and the Birth of Point d’Alençon

While Spain and Greece absorbed the Italian approach to lace-making, it was Belgium that helped spread this expertise across Northern Europe - particularly into France.

In 1665, under the reign of Louis XIV, Jean-Baptiste Colbert established France’s first royal lace workshop in Alençon. This gave rise to Point de France lace, which later evolved into what we now call Point d’Alençon - a needlepoint lace designed to rival the refined imports from Italy and Flanders.

How French Towns Influenced the Language of Lace-Making

By the 18th century, to meet growing demand for these refined textiles, new lace-making hubs emerged across France. Regions such as Normandy, Flanders, and Auvergne became known for their bobbin lace production. The techniques and motifs developed in towns like Chantilly, Malines, Valenciennes, and Cluny were so distinctive that their names have endured in the lace-making lexicon.

These cities’ contributions continue to resonate today through the vocabulary of mechanical Leavers lace - a vocabulary shaped by the artistry, character, and cultural richness of France’s handmade lace traditions.